Cycling: Fitting a Rack

The trail riding experience turned out to be fun at first, but the shine wore off quickly. Then I realized that I really did need to prepare the bike for commuter/tour riding. So I put the hybrid tires (flat-free!) back on along with the front fender. I sought out a bigger handlebar bag to carry my road-repair kit and the cable and lock. I also decided I didn’t want the seatpost mounted rack; I prefer frame mounted for that purpose.

I did the research. There are racks made to fit over disk brakes like mine, but the mountings were part plastic, which meant large surfaces to mount onto the frame and I doubted the side plates on my rear forks could accommodate that. But I knew it was possible to find other ways to fit the lower end of the leg on the brake side. So I ordered an Ibera PakRak (IB-RA16) for about $28 (US) on eBay and waited for it to arrive. I noticed it was one of the lightest of its type and the legs were adjustable for different wheel sizes.

Keep in mind that I use the local Ace Hardware store to supply the odd bits and pieces I knew I would need for this. All of the parts are based on 5mm normal threaded (i.e., not fine-threaded) bolts; this is common with bicycles. There are several threaded mount points in most frames. Mine offered two different sets of holes for the rack legs. I knew I could get metal sleeves to stand off the one of the brake side. When I checked, the end of the leg was just about 1/2 inch away from the threaded hole, but I also needed just a bit more clearance to keep from rubbing the break caliper. Ace offered a nice aluminum sleeve 3/4 inch long, which was too much, but nothing in between that and 1/2 inch. I took the longer one, gripped it lightly in a vise-grips and shaved it off 1/8 inch with a hacksaw. That gave me the perfect length. All it needed now as a longer bolt (30mm) to get a proper grip.

The other issue is that my bike frame has no threaded bosses on the seat brace tubes. The stay that comes with the rack was designed with a nicely curved hardened rod with a slight offset outward and either up or down as needed. I grabbed some 5/16-inch clear plastic water tubing and cut it to cover the ends of the stay so as not to mar the paint on the bike. Then I got a 50mm long bolt and matching lock-nut (nylon lock). I had to squeeze the ends together very tightly to get it all to fit, but it grips the seat tube very tightly.

I’ve already ordered a set of saddle bags (pannier) for those times I need baggage for a shopping trip or such. I’m also waiting to see if someone local can get me a proper fitting taillight. Several times I nearly lost the one I had rigged up on the other rack because it never did fit right. Who says being a mystic has to make you impractical?

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0 Responses to Cycling: Fitting a Rack

  1. Iain says:

    I like it!!